Where do we draw the line between inspiration and appropriation?
Recent fashion industry headlines speak of the cultural appropriation allegations against Valentino’s Pre-Fall 25 Show.
Actor Lily Gladstone is amongst those that have accused Valentino of cultural appropriation, highlighting a bag from their pre-fall 2025 collection that resembles traditional Métis and Dene beadwork. Gladstone has previously worn Valentino, so expressed frustration and urged the brand to collaborate authentically with Indigenous artists.
This blog aims to explore the difference between appropriation and inspiration, and where the line should be drawn.
Examples of Cultural Appropriation
The festival scene across the western world has often been a breeding ground for cultural appropriation in fashion and beauty. Attendees of festivals such as Coachella in the US and Glastonbury in the UK, typically dress in highly decorative garments and make-up which is usually as far removed as they can get from their daily looks. Unfortunately, this comes at the cost of cultural appropriation, and the worst thing - many people are unaware that they are doing so! Trends such as bindi’s from the Indian sub-continent, African inspired cornrows and feather headdresses like Native American tribal dress have had their time in the limelight recently and for the wrong reasons.
So how can appreciation of an indigenous garment or beauty trend be stopped before it turns into appropriation?
Appropriation in the mainstream
Forms of cultural appropriation have been in the mainstream media for many years, and there are countless celebrities and their stylists who have been accused of it.
One of the celebs at the forefront of this issue, and possibly one of the most recognisable faces on the planet, Kim Kardashian, has been not only accused multiple times for adopting hairstyles such as cornrows, but also heavily criticised for erasing their cultural roots, by labelling them as “Bo Derek braids,”
Probably one of the most prolific examples of appropriation in pop culture, is Gwen Stefani, who has faced accusations of cultural appropriation multiple times throughout her career. During her No Doubt days in the 1990’s, she frequently wore bindi’s and henna tattoos, using these spiritually significant symbols of South Asia to look “edgy”
She also based a whole era of her solo career around the subculture of Harajuku girls in the 2000’s. Her Debut solo album introduced 4 Japanese backing dancers who accompanied her onstage and in her music videos and passed it off as “her love for the Harajuku style”. However, the was widespread criticism of the decision and Gwen was criticised for fetishising and stereotyping Asian culture. Actor and comedian Margaret Cho was one of the critics who called her out.
Big brands in luxury and fashion have also been accused of appropriation over the years too. It's not the first time Valentino has been called out, another instance back in 2025, saw the brand use a cast of mostly white models to showcase a collection called “Wild Africa”, banging bongos and wearing cornrows on the runway.
Victoria’s Secret has been repeatedly accused of cultural insensitivity, such as using Native American headdresses during their fashion shows many times over.
Marc Jacobs was Criticised in 2026 for using dreadlocks on predominantly white models during a runway show, which he sincenow admitted was ‘insensitive of him’.
Brands copying traditional motifs from cultures such as the Navajo or Andean communities without credit or compensation has been happening for years. When I was a textile designer I was often asked to create pieces what were an Ikat style or recreate paisleys.
There are people and brands who speak out against appropriating, like the Instagram account Diet Prada, who isn’t afraid to challenge plagiarism and appropriation in high fashion.
Actors including those mentioned earlier – Lily Gladstone and Margaret Cho - are using their platforms as celebrities to confront brands, or celebrities and call into question their use of indigenous techniques and fetishisation of cultures for profit.
Inspiration with Respect
Whilst there are still grey areas, it is possible to be inspired by cultures and still respect them. For example, Dior’s 2020 Cruise collection used African textiles, acknowledging their use by collaborating with African craftspeople and artists and publicly crediting them.
Stella McCartney, who’s brand is built on ethics, credits local communities when being influenced by them and works with local producers to source authentic materials.
Japanese fashion designers Yohji Yamamoto & Issey Miyake nod to their heritage by interpreting methods and visuals that have roots in their cultural identity. Coming from those who are of Japanese culture, this is an inspiration and celebration of culture.
Is respectful borrowing, when credit and benefits are shared with the source community OK?
The argument for is that the exposure for indigenous traditions and crafts can lead to enriching cultural fusion rather than appropriation.
When there is a power imbalance—when marginalised cultures can be used by dominant ones without credit, respect, or benefit to the source community. By contrast, cultural inspiration rooted in collaboration, acknowledgment, and benefit-sharing can positively create appreciation instead of appropriation.
Indigenous fashion events are on the increase, as colonised nations celebrate their first-nation communities. cities like New York and Santa Fe, host their own indigenous fashion weeks. Non-profit organisations in countries including Australia and New Zealand host indigenous runway shows, shopping events and exhibitions purely for their indigenous owned brands and craftspeople.
We can only hope that the mainstream celebrities and brands are called out and appropriation is phased out.
Coming full circle on the question at the beginning of this blog
Where do we draw the line between inspiration and appropriation? The answer is – the line is blurry. Give credit where credit is due and do not make profit from cultures, unless you share it or it enriches local communities
